Residence of Col. John C. Hays – Oakland History Room
After Hays died in 1883, the estate was sold to William J. Dingee. Dingee built an opulent 19-room Queen-Anne-style mansion and had additional landscaping with gardens, terraces, and waterfalls. He also added such features as a deer park and an elk paddock.
1857 – 1888: Ellis A Haines purchased the property from the Peralta’s
In 1888, Frederick C. Talbot of the San Francisco lumber firm Pope & Talbot purchased 133 acres from Ellis A. Haines in Elmhurst near San Leandro and adjacent to the Souther Farm (now the Dunsmuir Home) for $15,000.
San Francisco Chronicle July 08, 1888
Oakland Tribune July 30, 1888
The total acreage seems to change depending on who wrote it or what you read. Above, you will see that one clipping has the entire area as “133 acres “and, in the other, it as “153 acres.” It has been as high as 453 acres. I have always understood it to be the same land as the Oakland Zoo and Knowland Park, but who knows?
Oakland Tribune August 08, 1890
Oakland Tribune September 14, 1888
Edenvale
Nestled in the hills surrounded by the choicest fruits and flowers, “Edenvale,“ as the name suggests, is a veritable paradise.
The estate comprised 140 acres (different acreage) of fertile land for farming and orchards. Sixty acres were planted with almonds, cherries, oranges, walnuts, lemons, prunes, apricots, peaches, and olives, and eighty acres were chosen farming land.
There was a large modern stable, a greenhouse, and servants’ quarters. There was a home for the caretaker, which is still standing today. A brooder for chickens and a pen for pigs. Oakland Tribune March 22, 1902
Durant purchased the Talbot estate “Edenvale.” The estate, which consisted of 470 acres (different acreage), sold for $200,000.
Oakland Tribune November 25, 1919
San Francisco Examiner Feb 08, 1920
The above says “478-acres” and below says “200-acres”.
Oakland Tribune November 23, 1919
Fire Destroys The Mansion
The fire broke out on December 19, 1921, on the third floor near the roof. Durant was outside then and alerted the servants and employees, who formed a fire brigade.
Strong winds fanned the fire, and it quickly spread throughout the mansion.
A squad of police out of the central division carried furniture and valuables from the burning mansion. They then turned their efforts to stop the fire from spreading to the basement, saving a valuable collection of wines and liquors.
Oakland Tribune December 20, 1921
The Estate Becomes A Park
In 1929, the city of Oakland council voted to purchase the former country estate of the late F.C. Talbot from the Park Commission. The 350 acres ( different acreage) would cost the city approximately $662,000. That deal fell through, and the whole story is confusing. Durant Park opened to the public in 1932.
Oakland Tribune April 19, 1929
In 1935, Sidney Snow took possession of the 475-acre Durant Park (different acreage)and started building the zoo. He ran it with some help from the city of Oakland. – From A History as Told by the Founder’s Daughter”
In 1937, Durant Park was called the Zoological Gardens and Arboretumof Metropolitan Oakland.
Durant Park Press Photo 1937
Durant Park Press Photo 1937 – Is this the same bridge that the Talbot’s had over their pond?
Oakland Tribune May 22, 1950
In 1950, Durant Park was dedicated as the “East Bay State Park” under the California park system. A dedication speech noted that many trees and plants from F.C. Talbot’s estate were included in the Historical Arboretum,a separate park from the Oakland Zoo.
Oakland Tribune December 29, 1957 The row of Canary Island Palms
A row of mature Canary Island Date Palms marks the part entry. Stately Mexican Fan Palms, Chilean Palms, and exotic Bunya Bunya trees from Australia dot the formal meadows of the existing picnic grounds. These Arboretum specimens were planted at the turn of the last century (I bet before that) as part of the Talbot Estate grounds. There is also a collection of 8 species of palms, native and exotic oaks, redwoods, and many other specimens from North Africa, the Himalayas, Chile, and the Canary Islands. – From the Zoo Master Plan 1996
In 1962, a fire destroyed the building home to Effie, the elephant, until 1959. The building, built in 1890, was part of the Talbot Estate. It had been marked unsafe.
On the map below, the sizeable red square shows where most of the estate was. The smaller green box shows the location of the caretaker home that was part of the Talbot Estate. When Sidney Snow ran the zoo, he and his family lived there. Now, it is used by zoo employees.
The meadow by the main gate still has some of the trees planted by Talbot over 100 years ago, and they are part of the Knowland State Arboretum and Park today.
From the Zoo Master Plan 1996
Sidney Snow’s Home
Circa 1939
Google Map 2019 showing the caretakers home still standing in Knowland Park
A couple of things:
I am working on getting copies of the actual photos instead of copies from a report.
I am also checking on the Knowland State Arboretum and Park. Does it still exist?
I know they allow parking (on crowded days) in the meadow, where some historic trees still stand.
Again while researching something else, I came across this, and I had to share it. I was looking into the Haines Ranch and found this article about Mountain George.
Old Mountain George Died Where He Wanted to Die
On the 15th day of July 1887, Jonathan Murphy was riding over the ridge close to (or on) the Haines Ranch (now the Oakland Zoo) or Mills Seminary (now Mills College) when he decided to check on ‘Old George” at his cabin. He found George dead in his bed. His old gun and hound dog lay by his side. There was a letter addressed to his sister, in papers scattered on a table.
Everybody in East Oakland knew the tall, gaunt man with long grey bread as “Mountain George.” But few knew him as George Clinton Tisdale, a former resident of New York. He was about 63 years old and had lived in the hills for years, killing whatever game he could find.
He used to occupy a cabin on the E.A. Haines ranch but recently had lived in a hut on Colonel Simpson’s farm, about four miles back of Mills Seminary on the old Redwood Road.
If you grew up the Montclair District of Oakland from 1956 to about 1990, you shopped at Freeway Variety.
The Montclarion March 1956
Freeway Variety opened in March of 1956. It was owned and operated by partners Cy Fritz and David Iventosch. They both had experience running the same type of stores in Berkeley.
The Montclarion March 1956
The Montclarion March 1956
The Montclarion March 1956
In 1957 Iventosch bought out his partner Fritz.
The Montclarion Apr 17, 1957
The Montclarion Apr 17, 1957
The Montclarion May 1957
From the Forgotten Montclair Page on Facebook
A basket from Freeway Variety
I felt the best way to describe this most beloved and dearly missed variety store is by sharing memories of it, which were detailed in a Facebook group. The group is lovingly called Forgotten Montclair. It is dedicated to preserving and sharing the memories of growing up in the Montclair District of Oakland, California.
Laura C: I bought my Beautiful Crissy doll there, in elementary school, along with my camping cookware for Brownie camp. When I graduated from high school, I bought my powder blue gym clothes there.
Joanne G: Freeway Variety was “candy land” heaven to me! My mom never let me have candy growing up – not ever once being able to trick or treat. So if I was ever able to ride my bike up to Freeway Variety from lower Broadway Terrace (all uphill)! The Now or Later were my first choice after a spin around the store to take in the isles of crazy stuff.
Joan G
Todd E: Lived in Montclair 1970 – 1992. Freeway Variety was like the ultimate dive bar of five and dimes. It was kind of dark with low ceilings, but it was comfy. It felt a little bit like a place where you could buy a Gremlin from some ancient guy in the back where all the wicker baskets hung from the ceiling. There were nuances to Freeway Variety that can never be replicated anywhere else. There was nothing funnier than riding your BMX down that strange concrete slope and dropping your bike down and entering the store in one fluid motion. It’s the place where I thought Army Men and those little parachute dudes were born. It had all the romantic stuff of childhood, candy, cards, Slurpee, video games, toys, Choose Your Own Adventure Books, a whole section on Movie Novelizations (with pictures in the middle!), strange arcane stuff like rabbit’s feet and real Mexican Jumping Beans. To me, the basic concept of what 1 mile is will always be the walk from my house over by Joaquin Miller School to Freeway Variety.
Christopher W
Christopher W: Ah, there it is, my favorite store growing up in Montclair. While my mom shopped at Lucky’s, I would be down at Freeway Variety looking for everything from match cars, Pez dispensers, loved the chocolate ones, and when I was tiny, I would get a quarter and ride the horse in the front. Good times
Cherie L: We would walk down there from Westwood Way. Buster brown socks. Schools supplies. Candy, you name it. Lived in Montclair from 1959 to 1982.
Stephanie W: Florence was my auntie
Nanette: I loved Freeway Variety! The old creaky wood floor that sloped down. You could get art (my favorite), craft, and school supplies. And of course where we got our Wacky Packs!!!!·
Susan S: Look what I found cleaning out my closet
Dennis J: Does anyone remember the ladies of Freeway Variety store? Florence, Winnie, Mildred, and May. I worked there after school and on weekends. Coolest boss ever: Big David Iventosch. My first real job!!!
Helene C: Loved everything about Freeway Variety. The smell of popcorn, candy, turtle pond scum. The only place where you could get candy, washcloths, home goods, toys, candy, an iron, a picture frame, valentines, Christmas cards, canning jars, toy guns, turtles, popcorn, and sweet. And those old ladies behind the counter. A golden childhood staple and memory. I pity everyone else.
Erik H: Florence always gave me extra on my Icee. But you introduced me to the “Suicide “flavored slush.
Dena M: I remember we would all go there to pick out our Halloween costumes and buy wax harmonicas.
Susan S: Look what I found cleaning out my closet
Jan D: The ladies used to follow us around the store, thinking we were going to steal something!
Donna: I still have my Ink bottles and pens.
Lara: I loved getting presents from here. Thanks to my mom, this is dated. I guess that means I am too! 33 years ago . . .
I’ve always been curious about the meaning behind a street name. Some are obvious, like Broadway or Main Street. I’ve lived on Capricorn Ave (zodiac), Thornhill Dr. (Hiram Thorn), Georgia St. (the state), Athol Ave (still haven’t figured that one out), and Lynde St.
Map of Oakland and vicinity map number nine. Published by Thompson & West, Oakland, Cala., 1878
Lynde Street was named for George L Lynde, a landowner. I don’t know precisely when he purchased the land in the Fruitvale District. I found him living there in 1866.
California Voters Registration 1866
San Francisco City Directory 1867
George Lee Lynde was born in about 1838 in the state of Vermont. By 1860 he was living in California with his parents and siblings. In 1861 he married Cassandra Jane Hewitt in San Francisco. They had four children.
1870 Federal Census for the Brooklyn Township in Oakland
George W. Lynde 1862-1941
Matthew A. Lynde 1868-
Martha V. Lynde 1868-
Frank H. Lynde 1876-1939
The 1877 Oakland City Directory has Lynde living in Fruitvale near East 27th, right by Lynde Street.
1877 Oakland City Directory
1880 Federal Census for District No 12 in Oakland
Cassandra and George were divorced in 1880, and she moved to Arizona. By 1899 George was living in San Francisco and was remarried. He died in 1915.
Oakland Tribune Sep 12, 1879
Lynde and Howard – Tin Shop
Alameda Encinal Nov 23, 1872
Oakland City Directory 1871
George co-owned a Tin Shop (plumbing, hardware, and gas fixtures) located at 683 East 12th Street.
I found the following article when I was doing the research for my post on the Hays Canyon Murder and another I am working on. I immediately went searching for the paintings, and I found photos of them. Absolutely beautiful. Sharing what I found. The first painting is somewhere in the hills above Piedmont.
Oakland Tribune Feb 24, 1886
The artist William Keith spent some time in Piedmont Hills painting the following.
View from Piedmont Hills – c 1886
“View from Piedmont Hills,”
oil on canvas, unsigned, canvas: 15.75″h x 29″w.
It is named after the Shepherd Family, who owned about 200 acres and lived there from 1875 to the early 1900s.
Oakland Tribune Feb 16, 1927
You can view the location of Shepherd’s land in a Map of the City of Oakland, Berkeley, Oakland & Brooklyn Townships, and Alameda dated 1889, Published by E.P. Vandercook & Co. Real estate agents.
William J Shepherd (1844-1921) emigrated from England in about 1865 with his parents, Thomas and Ellen Shepherd, brothers John and Thomas, and sisters Mary Ann and Elizabeth.
Oakland Tribune Nov 4, 1876
In 1878 William married Mary Rogers (1842-1907). They had six children, William, James, Mary, Ellen, Louise, and Robert. They attended the Hays Canyon School.
Oakland Tribune Mar 10, 1875
LARGE LANDOWNERS OF 1876-BUSINESS DIRECTORY OF OAKLAND TOWNSHIP-OF ALAMEDA TOWNSHIP-
SF Examiner Mar 25, 1878
1895 Directory
Robert ShepherdLillie ShepherdRobert Shepherd
Hays School Graduation – 1901
William Shepherd died in San Jose in 1921
Oakland Tribune Jun 7, 1921
Shepherd Pass Road –
A few articles discuss building a road that would run through the Canyon to connect to Skyline using County Road 2457 (now Shepherd Canyon Road.)
Oakland Tribune Jun 15,1896
Oakland Tribune Sept 18, 1897
Oakland Tribune Daily Knave 1953. Settling a moot point in Oakland nomenclature from William’s nephew.
Oakland Tribune Jul 6,1953
Shepherd Canyon Freeway – Highway 77
California Highways and Public Works – March -April 1958
“Cal Trans bought up land in Shepherd Canyon with the plan of building highway 77. It was to be an extension of Park Blvd. and would run up the canyon and connect highway 13 with Contra Costa county (much as highway 24 does just two miles north). Fortunately, community activists argued against the plan, and the area was preserved. In 1972, assembly member Ken Meade officially protected the area with AB561. After the downfall of the freeway plan, the Shepherd Canyon Corridor Plan was shaped by volunteers, and now guides the preservation of the canyon.”
Recently, someone asked about when 7-Eleven came to Montclair, which was about 1958. I thought I would go back a little farther and tell you about the first store in Montclair.
A Bit of History.
In 1925, Otto Schuneman bought land on Thorn Road and built a store. His store was a combination fountain, grocery store, and service station. The address was 281 Thorn Road.
The Montclairion – circa 1957
From 1935
Early residents of the area remember the place as a tourist bus stop, where refreshments were served at the fountain and an outdoor terrace.
The original building is still standing behind the 7-11 store.
Showing the location of the first store
Mr. Schuneman leased the store. E.G., Nickerson of 408 Florence Ave (now 5800 Florence Terrace) in 1926, and Captain Baldwin in 1928.
The Monclarion
From the Montclarion 1964
Funk’s Grocery – 1930-1940
In March of 1930, Davis L. Funk leased the store from Schuneman and bought out his remaining stock. Mr. Funk had owned a couple of other stores in Oakland.
He called his store Funk’s Grocery and Montclair Grocery.
The Funk family lived at 5677 Thornhill in the mid to late 30s to early 40s.
In the early 1960s, the Montclair Presbyterian Church bought the house from the owners.
My ex-husband and I worked for the church from 1983- 1987 and lived in the house.
Note: Montclair Presbyterian Church (MPC) and the Montclair Library were formed in March 1930.
1941 Directory for Montclair
Montclair Food Center 1940-1957
Montclair Food Center – Carrol Mauro 1951
From Carrol Mauro
In 1940, Funk took on a partner, his son-in-law Malcolm “Scotty” Hodge, the husband of his daughter Lenore, and the store was renamed the Montclair Food Center.
Funk and Hodge ran the store together until Funk died in 1949 at his home on Grisborne Avenue behind the store.
Oakland Tribune 1949
Hodge and his wife continued until 1957 when they couldn’t negotiate a new lease with Otto Schuneman, the owner. I thought it was because he could make more money leasing it to Speedee Mart.
Montclarion 1957
Montclarion 1957
When the store closed in 1957, it was the last one in Montclair to maintain a credit and delivery service. Montclair Food Center was more than just a store for many of its customers.
By 1957, Montclair was also changing. Payless Grocery Store (soon to be Luckys) and LaSalle Avenue Market were located in the business district, and a new Safeway would soon be built.
Min-a-Mart and Speedee Mart 1958-1966?
A Min-a-Mart opened in about 1958.
In 1959, the store was leased by Speedee Mart Corporation.
In 1964, the parent company of the 7-Eleven Stores bought all the Speedee Mart franchises in California.
They began slowly changing the name to 7-Eleven (7-11)
A special edition of my blog in honor of Black History Month and a wonderful man.
Calvin Simmons Conductor
I was lucky enough to know Clavin Simmons personally. He was the conductor of the Oakland Symphony when I worked there.
Let me back up a little bit. My mom Sarah Chambers started working at the Oakland Symphony in 1977 when I was still in high school. She began as the receptionist and worked her way up the ladder to the Director of Education.
SF Examiner January 28, 1985
She would sign me up during the summer to hand out flyers at lunchtime events. One of our board members would do the same with her daughter Libby Schaff was the Mayor of Oakland from 2015-2023.
I was hired in 1980 as the receptionist and worked my way up the ladder to Box Office/Marketing Assistant. We both worked for the Symphony until September 1986, when they filed for bankruptcy.
Before the Oakland Symphony
Calvin was born in San Francisco in 1950 to Henry Calvin and Mattie Pearl Simmons.
Music was a part of his life from the beginning. He learned how to play the piano from his Mother.
Balboa High School Yearbook 1968Balboa High School Yearbook 1968
Calvin attended Balboa High School in San Francisco, where he was a member of the orchestra.
“did tons of conducting with school orchestra.”
Madi Bacon
SF Examiner September 19, 1969
The Maestro Kid
He was the assistant conductor with the San Francisco Operafrom 1972 to 1975, winning the Kurt Herbert Adler Award.
He remained active at the San Francisco Opera for all his adult life, supporting General Director Kurt Herbert Adler, first as a repetiteur and then as a member of the conducting staff. He made his formal debut conducting Giacomo Puccini’s La Bohème with Ileana Cotrubas. His later work on a production of Dmitri Shostakovich’s Lady Macbeth of the Mtsensk District drew national attention.
In 1979 he conducted the premiere of Menotti’s La Loca in San Diego.
He made his debut at the Metropolitan Opera, conducting Engelbert Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel, returning the following year. He was on the musical staff at Glyndebourne from 1974 to 1978.
Oakland Symphony
with Harold Lawrence, manager Oakland Symphony circa 1978
Simmons became musical director of the Oakland Symphony Orchestra at the age of 28 in 1978. He was one of the early African-American conductors of a major orchestra.
His debut audition was in early 1978.
SF Examiner April 16, 1978
SF Examiner April 23, 1978
A Maestro Wordless – September 1978
SF Examiner September 26, 1978
Windsor Star January 22, 1982
Calvin joined the Youth Orchestra tour in July 1982
Calvin July 1982 Oakland Symphony Picnic – Photo by Bill Londagin
On Sunday, August 22, 1982, I was next door helping my husband, who was repairing our neighbor’s roof. All of a sudden, my mom screams out the window that Calvin has died. Such a sad day. It took another week to find his body. It was such a loss to Oakland and the music world. He was on his way to greatness.
SF Examiner August 23, 1982
Calvin was visiting friends in Upper State New York. Connery Pond was where he went a lot to unwind and regroup. While waiting for dinner, Calvin took a canoe ride out in the pond. He was by himself about 150 feet from the shore; he was a good swimmer. A woman was taking pictures of the sunset from the beach. She pointed her camera towards Calvin, and he must have noticed that, and being the ham he was, he stood up to pose. He then fell into the water.
SF Examiner August 23, 1982
Philadelphia Daily News August 24, 1982
A Final Tribute
There was a memorial service on September 07, 1982, at Grace Cathedral in San Francisco; more than 2200 people attended.
There was a memorial concert on September 20, 1982, at the Paramount Theatre.
